FISHY BUSINESS: Dine on seafood year-round

By MARY ANN KAUCHAK

For the News & Messenger

There’s something fishy going on at Blue Ridge Seafood Restaurant in Gainesville and you need to know what it is. You can dine on fresh seafood almost 365 days a year and that includes shrimp, crab,
oysters and frog legs. The restaurant is only closed on Mondays, unless it’s a holiday, and the three major holidays — Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day.

Owners Mark and Donna Donovan are easygoing and eager to please. Mark Donovan, an Agricultural Engineering graduate from Virginia Tech, married into the business over 20 years ago and is quite
knowledgeable about the seafood industry.

Donna’s parents, Rod and Cora Stringer, created Blue Ridge Seafood Restaurant from a one-room ma and pa eatery. The Stringers began their seafood business selling crabs on the side of the rode in
Dranesville, Va. Employed full-time as an air traffic controller, Rod Stringer entrusted his wife and daughter to run the family business that has now gone on for 30 years.

The building has expanded over the years and currently accommodates around 250 customers including outdoor seating. Although business typically slows down after summer months, Mark Donovan
believes seafood dining should be a fall and winter endeavor as well. “This time of year it’s caught when it’s cool, moist and crisp. It’s not hot on the dock, less chance for bacteria,” the Donovan adds.

The 50-year-old couple takes pride in serving the freshest and best tasting seafood around. Ironically, Donna Donovan is allergic to seafood so she is vigilant when serving diners with the same concerns.
There is even a shellfish allergy key on the cash register so that servers can alert the kitchen when necessary.

Mark Donovan judiciously taste tests all seafood before purchasing. He’s developed a rapport with his suppliers in Virginia, the Carolinas and Alabama and deals with them regularly.

“Where the food is, what type of water you catch it in, how much salt it is in makes a difference in the taste and how sweet it is.”

Donovan admits to “blind” tasting his select brown shrimp to see “how easy it peels, how it feels … rubbery or firm” and of course the taste.

“We may be a hole-in-the-wall, but we are very picky about the product we serve,” his wife says.

It’s all about the quality of the food but the Donovans are not afraid to bring in the competition to stay on top of their product.

To ensure absolute freshness, crabs are sorted and cooked as soon as they come into the restaurant and re-steamed just before serving. Giant steamers located in the back of the building cook from six
to eight bushels of crabs at one time. Priced according to size and season, traditional hard shell blue crabs can be ordered steamed and spiced or in garlic butter. I must return soon to try the garlic crab
that is served partially cleaned, lungs removed, broken in half and dredged in garlic butter. During peak season, Blue Ridge serves an average of 150 bushels of crab a week.

This typically rustic venue with brown butcher paper covered tables, wooden mallets for crab crackin,’ and plastic buckets for tossing shells, is an ideal spot for “pickin’ and eatin’.”

During my visit, extra large crabs were selling for $59.95 a dozen. Filled with sweet, plump morsels of meat, half a dozen salty crustaceans were ample fare. The Donovans recommend that you call
ahead to find out what sizes are available for that day.

Depending on when you go, drive around back and view the staff sorting the catch.

Donna Donovan prizes her mother’s crab cake recipe served as one of the house specialties. Made with jumbo lump blue crab meat, you can order one crab cake for $10.95 or two for $18.95 plus your
choice of two sides.

Made-to-order peel and eat shrimp join the menu for $16.95 a pound or $9.95 a half a pound.

Blue Ridge followed a popular restaurant trend when they added “Create Your Own Dinner” to their menu. Diners may select from 11 entrees including spiced shrimp and Snow Crab legs to design their
own two-item ($17.95), three-item ($22.95), or four-item ($27.95) meal.

Fried dishes are hand breaded with Blue Ridge’s unique cracker meal coating. Perfectly cooked and gently coated, I highly recommend the oysters and shrimp. Moist and tender, fresh fried cod fillets
were delicious and impressive as well. Small pyramid-shaped hush puppies served on the side arrive crispy and tasty. Crisp and sweet, homemade coleslaw, coarsely shredded just the way I like it, is
the perfect accompaniment.

No worries if you’re not a seafood lover. New York Strip steaks (starting at $20.95), T-bone steaks, herb roasted chicken (1/2 for $12.95) and grilled quail (two for $15.95 or one with spiced, broiled, or fried
shrimp for the same price) are regular dinner menu items. Grilled chicken sandwiches are available for $7.95 served with coleslaw and French fries. And those Blue Ridge fries are tasty! Soups, salads,
and a children’s menu ($4.75 and up), are offered as well.

Appetizers are value priced and numerous on the Blue Ridge menu. Cajun battered crawfish or gator tail go for $6.95. Oysters on the half shell (six for $6.95 in season) or a dozen steamed are listed at
$8.95. Steamed clams (1 lb. for $8.50), steamed mussels ($7.95), stuffed mushroom caps ($8.25), hot crab and lobster dip ($7.95), potato skins ($6.50), jalapeno poppers ($6.95) and calamari ($7.95) are
other options.

For your sweet tooth, desserts are made in house and include cheesecake, Key Lime Pie, and Peanut Butter Pie at $4.50 a serving.

A full service bar serving mixed, frozen and after dinner drinks is on premises. Carafes of wine, beers on tap as well as domestic, imported and specialty beers are also available. Outdoor dining
accommodates a Tikki Bar, weather permitting.

If you’re a sports junkie, look for the room filled with picnic tables and two big screen televisions.

Blue Ridge Seafood offers a full seafood market for your convenience. Be sure to call for market prices.

Call the restaurant for information on planning your next private party or catering event.

As fall foliage blankets us with its warm and vibrant hues, it’s a perfect time to take a drive and visit Blue Ridge Seafood. No fancy dress, bring your favorite crab picker, (tool or friend), and chow down on
some fresh seafood in a family friendly atmosphere.

Mary Ann Kauchak lives in Lake Ridge. Her third cookbook, “SHORTCUTS, TOO” is available at Mom’s Apple Pie in Occoquan. She can be reached at .