Restaurant Review: Bistro L'hermitage

Owner and host of Bistro L'hermitage Youssef Essakl's sense of design-old world, yet elegant -- provides an inviting, intimate setting. Like walking into the dining room of a grand hotel, my first visit left me feeling like a pampered princess.

"You've done Prince William County the greatest favor ever," commented one patron. "We congratulate you; Prince William County owes you!"

Fresh white tablecloths after each seating, plus discriminating food presented by a seasoned and professional staff and 75 percent of the staff has worked together for some 15 years -- this is what fine dining is all about. Essakl speaks affectionately of his charming French restaurant sitting on the edge of historic Occoquan.

"It's a package," he said referring to the food, service, and atmosphere. "You have to deliver it right."

Bistro L'hermitage is named for the Loire region of France known for good food and wine. Formerly an Asian venue, Essakl purchased this quaint cottage in 2003 and for the next five years brainstormed and toiled over this "destination" spot that has put Lake Ridge dining in a class with the finest restaurants in D.C., New York and San Francisco.

He serves dinner during the week, and added brunch on weekends.

"If you're not on top of things, then things will be on top of you," Essakl says, Essakl finally opened the restaurant in December 2007. He called upon 39-year-old Dawn Burkart, whom he met while working at the Watergate Hotel Restaurant, to serve as his executive chef.

Burkart carries some heavy credentials. She is a 1994 graduate of L'Academie de Cuisine in Bethesda. She also interned and trained at the Watergate under renowned French chef Jean-Louis Palladin for four years. Burkhart went on to become the executive chef while Essakl was acting general manager of Jeffrey's, referred to as "George Bush's restaurant," on the same site.

The bond between Burkart and Essakl is special and visible.

She refers to Essakl as "the charmer." She said his absence was palpable after a recent trip took him out of the restaurant for more than a week.

"We've been brainstorming this menu all along," he says. No screaming and yelling is necessary in the kitchen when you surround yourself with business associates that are also long-time friends and part of your restaurant "family."

Essakl began as a server in 1987 at 21 Federal in Washington, D.C., under the tutelage of owner and chef Bob Kinkead, who was his mentor.

"He respected you and his customers, if you worked hard, he recognized your effort," Essakl said. Essakl added the universal dream in the restaurant world is to open your own place where you have a good working environment, are surrounded by good friends with the same work ethic, and you "don't have to answer to anyone!"

He went on to become the general manager at the famous Washington, D.C.-restaurant Aqua-relle and co-owner of Marcel's.

His presence is understated yet passionate. Essakl is earnest and sincere when welcoming guests for the first time or repeat visits. One feels like a celebrity in his "house" and the staff follows his lead.

"I like to make good food and make people happy with it" she states. "I love what I do; I love the atmosphere -- sweat, work hard, have fun and get the job done."

Her talent and expertise shine through with each dish leaving her orderly kitchen. From home-made stock simmering on the stove to pan-seared skate wing, an occasional feature, served golden brown with caper beurre blanc sauce, Burkart displays her effortless grace as a master chef. I attest to the Rainbow Trout with Champagne Risotto and Tomato Balsamic Drizzle that arrived visually impressive then melted in my mouth as I dined.

For a unique dining experience, order the Roasted Duck Breast with Israeli Couscous and Cherry Thyme Duck Jus.

The glimmering pearls of this distinctive couscous arrive in a molded flat round; they taunt the eye and massage your tongue as the delicate pasta-like shapes accented with butter, scallions and Parmesan cheese glide down your palate.

Of course, classics such as French onion soup, Pommes Frites (homemade French fries), seared duck Foie Gras (duck liver) and escargots (snails) are also on the menu. I would be remiss if I didn't mention other staff members that choreographed my delightful evening at Bistro L'hermitage.

As Essakl fondly refers to them as "old school," servers Tony and Pepe, with over 80 years experience combined, are obvious pros. And last but not least, Bistro's sommelier extraordinaire, Boone Sirmoungkhoun, has expounded on and poured world famous vintages for more than 40 years. Serving mostly French and California wines, the extensive wine list is moderately priced. Servers tactfully offer suggestions and inform you of the featured wine of the night. Bistro L'hermitage is available for special events such as wedding rehearsals, showers and private parties.

Essakl, Burkart and their experienced and professional staff have worked together serving Wash-ington's elite including Condeleezza Rice, Bob Dole and President George W. Bush.

Now, allow them the privilege of serving you! It will be an evening to remember that will beg for an encore performance!

Mary Ann lives in Lake Ridge. Her third cookbook, "SHORTCUTS, TOO," is now available at Salt & Pepper Books in Occoquan. Send questions or comments in care of this paper at P.O.Box 2470, Woodbridge, VA. 22195.