FAR EAST MAGIC: Indian restaurant brings new taste

By MARY ANN KAUCHAK

For the News & Messenger

Masala Magic Indian Fusion Restaurant & Bar is a fresh face on the Prince William restaurant scene. Located in the Potomac Mills Festival Shopping Center, formerly the site of Palm Tree Chinese restaurant, first-time restaurateur Aju Katwal has created a tasteful, upscale look for your dining experience. Crisp white tablecloths crowned with artistically folded napkins send the message that the owner cares and wants to please. A buffet sits off to the side keeping the dining area inviting and classy.

Nepalese-born Katwal came to the U.S. as a young newlywed with aspirations of becoming a pilot. Dreams of flying faded when he discovered the high cost of flight school. Ambitious and conscientious, Katwal developed his restaurant skills managing an Indian venue in Fairfax while pursuing a degree in computer networking. Just hours after sending an impressive resume heralding a 4.0 GPA, he was hired by Boston Market in 1998. He remained with them for 10 years becoming a district manager and nurturing the desire to open his own restaurant.

Upon entering Masala Magic, one would conclude that the site took months of planning. In truth, almost entirely conceived and created on his computer, it took 36-year-old Katwal only a month and a half to make his dream become a reality. He credits his computer skills and past food service experience for giving him the stamina to achieve his ambition in such a short time.

Katwal originally considered a fast-casual concept in Smoketown Plaza, but once his realtor showed him his current full-service location, he changed his mind.

"I didn't even come inside," Katwal said. "It was perfect!"

Masala, meaning "mixture of spices," defines Katwal's signature South Asian cuisine with Tibetan and Nepalese influence.

"The base is Indian," he said. "It's all about adding spices, when you add them and how you cook it -- boil, fry or sauté." His original cooking styles were developed early, preparing his own meals while attending high school in India.

"Herbs and spices used in South Asian cooking have been identified and selected for their varied health benefits over a period of 2,000 years," he said. "The cuisine of South Asia is already low in saturated fats [yet] high in fiber, vegetable proteins and anti-oxidants."

Flavors of cumin, turmeric, coriander, ginger, garlic, cardamom, clove and cinnamon contribute to the unique taste of this delicious ethnic cuisine.

As I sampled various items, I noted similarities to more familiar fare. Number six on the menu, named "Magic Roll," favors a Greek gyro.

For a modest $6.95, resembling a giant burrito, lightly seasoned ground chicken in a sausage-like casing baked in a tandoor is presented rolled in delicate naan (Indian bread) with veggies and sour cream. The naan at Masala Fusion is the best I ever sunk my teeth into. Thinner than most and dotted with crusty bubbles of hot, chewy dough, this popular accompaniment tops the charts!

"Magic Momo," a Nepalese/Tibetan specialty listed first on the menu, resembles Chinese dumplings but is distinctly prepared with the chef's secret recipe of seasoned ground chicken and an original dipping sauce for $7.95.

Chef Bhuban Sakya hails from Nepal but spent most of his life in India. The passionate 53 year old has been cooking for 13 years.

Buffet offerings the afternoon that I visited included a tasty onion fritter know as bhaji. Crunchy and deep-fried, these spiky dumplings are made with onion batter and select seasonings. For the adventuresome, goat dishes occasionally show up on the buffet. My favorite, Tandoori Chicken, was fresh and plentiful. A steaming hot chafing pan of Baigan Bhartha was a tasty new discovery for me. Made of tender eggplant grilled over charcoal, mashed and cooked with fresh tomatoes, onions, garlic, ginger and spices costs a mere $10.95 as a vegetarian selection on the main menu.

Katwal assures me the menu in his smoke-free restaurant is made for the general public. Gesturing toward his significant buffet, the friendly owner stated that only "10 percent of the items are hot [taste]."

A la carte menu items may be ordered extra spicy or hot and the kitchen will oblige when possible.

His sizeable menu offers a light and hearty section ranging in price from $4.95 to $12.95 for an assorted platter featuring Samosa (vegetable turnover), Aloo Tikki (pan-fried seasoned mashed potatoes) and Choila (spicy meat salad).

Tandoori specials ($12.95-$18.95) include salmon, lamb, chicken and mixed grill. Ample vegetarian selections can be made mild, medium or spicy. Biryani specials of chicken, lamb, goat or shrimp cost $10.95-$15.95.

Desserts were curious but satisfying. Gajar Halwa ($4) tasted like comfort food, warm and slightly sweet, made of grated carrots, cardamom seeds and topped with almond slivers. Tasting more like coconut than carrots, to the eye it reminded me of classic carrot raisin salad. To my surprise, Pista Kulfi ($4), dense Indian pistachio and almond ice cream was served cubed, arranged in a decorative flower pattern with a cherry in the middle. Cool and sweet, it was the perfect complement for Masala's savory fare.

Traditional Indian lassi, sweet/salt or mango, are available for $3 and $3.50 respectively.

I favor the tangy sweetness of mango lassi to quell the pungency of spicy fare.

In these tough economic times, you can't afford to pass up Masala Fusion's generous buffet from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. Weekdays the buffet costs $8.95; Saturday and Sunday it costs $11.95. The restaurant closes from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. every day.

Katwal offers a 15 percent discount off the entire check as an added incentive for county and state police, fire department employees and senior citizens (60 and over).

Call Masala Fusion for catering prices and be sure to watch for their Grand Opening celebration in mid-December. From Tuesday, Dec. 15 through Sunday, Dec. 20, the lunch buffet will be just $5.99 or you may have 15 percent off your entire check (food only).

Mary Ann Kauchak lives in Lake Ridge. Her third cookbook, "SHORTCUTS, TOO," is now available at Salt & Pepper Books in Occoquan. She can be reached at makauchak@comcast.net.