Columbus Grill serves up taste of Portugal

After working and owning the former Espresso Café on Centreville Road for 12 years, Chef Nuno Duarte had bigger dreams.

The industrious 37-year old went up the street and purchased the building that housed the legendary furniture store, CL Barnes, in October 2007. Duarte custom built this new location to fit his dreams. His inspiration was fostered by his 44-year-old brother Antonio, one of the most successful caterers in Portugal for over 20 years and a renowned chef in his own right.

Duarte chose the name Columbus Grill hoping to inspire his patrons to explore a new dining experience just as Columbus explored uncharted territory. Columbus Grill opened September 2009 serving Mediterranean, Portuguese and American cuisines in a setting filled with charm and ambiance.

Duarte’s passion and dedication to detail are obvious the minute you walk in the door. Rich mahogany chair railing frames each dining area while a floor to ceiling wine rack is the center of attention in the main room. This elaborate wall of wine showcases 15 countries including wine selections from the farm of Duarte’s brother in Portugal.

Eye-catching art is displayed throughout the venue. Duarte informed me that the attractive charcoal drawings are works from a local artist in his hometown of Barcelos in northern Portugal.

Besides serving good food in an upscale atmosphere, Chef Duarte also wanted to offer locals a place to have a great time after their meal and into the night. An inviting 30-seat capacity bar surrounded by eight, 60-inch flat screen televisions plus an inviting patio with added viewing are testimony to that. Happy hour is Monday through Friday from 4-8 p.m.

Nuno’s expertise in Portuguese and Spanish cooking is complimented by his trio of chefs trained in the art of French, Greek, Italian and American cuisines.

An eclectic selection of tapas (small plates) include appetizers such as Pasteis Bacalhau (fried codfish pastries, $8), Chourico Assado (flame broiled Portuguese sausage, $9), Shrimp Santa Maria (breaded shrimp tossed in a creamy chili aioli sauce, served over lettuce, $9), and Meijillones a la Espanola (sautéed mussels with Portuguese sausage, peppers and onions in a warm tomato sauce, $8).

Caldo Verde is a favorite traditional soup served at many Portuguese celebrations. The Grill’s version is an elegant concoction of creamy potato puree, delicate shreds of kale and spicy sausage coins for a mere $4.

Our pleasant waiter accommodated my request for a “small taste” of the anatomically correct Sardinhas Grelhadas (grilled sardines). Larger than expected, the tender charred specimens were accented with threads of peppers and onion--definitely a fish connoisseur’s delight.

Calamari Frito ($9) is tender and sweet, marinated in buttermilk, breaded and lightly fried served with chili aioli dipping sauce.

A chilled glass of fruity white sangria was the perfect complement for my crisp, salty signature entrée, Bacalhau a Columbus. The generous portion of fried cod came plated on a tasty tomato-olive sauce with sautéed onions and home fries for $19. Being an avid fish-eater, the occasional encounter with small bones didn’t spoil my meal.

My husband opted for the Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes ($19). Pan roasted and rich with crab they arrived with pencil-thin asparagus and crispy shoestring potatoes.

Classic Paella Valenciana for $25 is packed with lobster, mussels, clams, scallops, shrimp, chicken and sausage on saffron rice with English peas. Another traditional menu item is Codornizes, two grilled quail with lemon garlic beurre blanc ($12).

I questioned Duarte about the Pollo Putanesca ($14), roasted “airline” chicken breast served over linguine in a sauce of capers, olives and tomatoes. He explained to me that airline chicken refers to a special cut that leaves the wing attached to the breast.

Columbus Grill favorites for meat-eaters include “Bitoque,” a grilled 10-ounce New York strip topped with a fried egg and Rosemary demi-glace sauce ($13) and sliced picanha, Columbus Steak, an imported Brazilian meat, served thin and tender on a slab of hot rock with three sauces and fries for $16. Picanha is a popular dish in Portugal and comparable to tri-tip steak.

Salads ranging from Greek, classic Caesar, tropical with mango and avocado, and arugula salads are priced from $6 to $8. Chicken, steak, salmon or shrimp can be added for a slight additional charge.

Sandwich selections include the Columbus Sandwich ($8), spicy shredded chicken with tomatoes, onions and roasted jalapenos on homemade salt bread, crab cake ($9), charbroiled hamburger, shaved New York strip steak with onions and cheese ($9) or Mediterranean Pita with red pepper hummus, avocado, red onion and balsamic tossed greens for $7.

Monday through Friday, from 11 am to 4 pm, Columbus Grill serves a $9.99 special lunch menu that includes soup or salad. I sampled the Lemon Chicken. A generous portion of tender breaded chicken breast was plated in tangy butter sauce and served with a mound of rice and assorted crisp tender veggies.

All desserts ($6) are house-made and presented table-side by your server. My husband and I shared the flan, a true test of this fine cuisine. Our wedge arrived larger than expected on a pool of crème caramel. I’m not generally a fan, but this pleasantly sweet, egg-rich custard slid down like cool silk and vanished in an instant.

Stop in for Columbus Grill’s new Sunday Brunch Buffet. Served from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., the $18 spread includes raw oysters, steamed mussels, lamb chops, a carving station, an omelet station, various salads, a tempting pastry table and more.

Columbus Grill is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Dining room closes at 10:30 p.m. Tapas bar and patio open 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. No reservations are required but call 703-330-3001 for large groups